Aleksey Shvets · Odesa, Ukraine

French Lemon Tart (Tarte au Citron)

Time4 h 15 min
LevelMedium
DessertsFrench
French Lemon Tart (Tarte au Citron)

I adore messing around with pastries. There is nothing more interesting than to bake something tasty and as harmful. I have already written that if I didn’t become a photographer, most likely would have chosen the profession of pastry chef or baker. But this recipe of lemon pie is one of my favorite recipe. Since then I first tried it, cooked it about a dozen times.

Adapted for a home kitchen by our editors from Aleksey Shvets's restaurant recipe. Aleksey Shvets lines a 28 cm tin with sweet shortcrust and bakes it blind, then fills it with a lemon cream of eggs, cream, sugar, zest and juice that he first warms to 80°C (176°F) over a water bath and bakes gently at 120°C (250°F). The home version keeps his pastry and his two-stage method but makes four 10 cm tartlets with a third of the filling, which in the original is more than one tart shell can hold. Not yet tested from this page.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Rub the flour, salt, sugar and cold butter together with your fingertips until the mixture looks like fine crumbs.
  2. Add the egg and bring the dough together quickly, without kneading; add 1 tsp of cold water only if it stays crumbly.
  3. Flatten the dough into a disc, wrap it in cling film and refrigerate for 1 hour.
  4. Roll the pastry out on a floured surface to 3 mm thick.
  5. Cut 4 circles about 3 cm (1¼ in) wider than the tins and line the tins, pressing the pastry into the edges and letting the excess hang over.
  6. Prick the bases with a fork and refrigerate the lined tins for 20 minutes.
  7. Heat the oven to 170°C (340°F).
  8. Line each tartlet with baking paper and fill with baking beans.
  9. Bake on the baking sheet for 15 minutes, then lift out the paper and beans.
  10. Bake for 8–10 minutes more, until the pastry is golden and dry.
  11. Trim the overhanging pastry with a sharp knife while still warm and let the shells cool.
  12. Finely grate the zest of both lemons and squeeze 70 ml of juice.
  13. Whisk the eggs, cream, sugar, lemon zest and juice gently in the heatproof bowl, without making foam.
  14. Set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and stir constantly for 8–12 minutes, until the filling reaches 80°C (176°F), thickens slightly and gives off the first wisps of steam.
  15. Take the bowl off the heat and let the filling cool to room temperature.
  16. Strain the filling through the fine sieve.
  17. Heat the oven to 120°C (250°F).
  18. Set the tartlet shells on the baking sheet and pour in the filling almost to the rim; pour any extra into the ramekin.
  19. Bake for 20–30 minutes, until the filling is set at the edges with a slight wobble in the centre.
  20. Cool the tartlets on a rack, then refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.
What we changed for home
  • One 28 cm tart replaced with four 10 cm (4 in) tartlets The chef's own source document calls this a lemon mini-tart. Four tartlets make four servings and bake faster, and the full batch of his pastry is the right amount for them.
  • Filling cut to a third: 3 eggs, 100 ml cream, 85 g sugar and 2 lemons The original's 9 eggs, extra yolk, 300 g of cream and 250 g of sugar make about 1.2 litres, more than a 28 cm shell holds, which is why its method mentions jars. A third fills four tartlets with a little left for a ramekin; the single extra yolk is dropped.
  • Pastry rolled 3 mm thick '5.6 mm' looks like a typo for 5–6 mm, and even that is thick for a tart; 3 mm bakes crisp.
  • Lined tins chilled for 20 minutes before blind baking Cold pastry shrinks less in the oven.
  • Final bake cut from 50 minutes to 20–30 at 120°C (250°F) Small tartlets set much faster than a 28 cm tart; take them out while the centre still wobbles slightly.
  • Thermometer used for the 80°C (176°F) water-bath stage The chef warms the filling to about 80°C (176°F), or until the first steam appears; a thermometer makes the point exact.

The dish in the photograph was cooked by the restaurant for this story. Photo: Oleksandr Slyadnyev.

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