Gregoire Michaud · Hong Kong

Pain de Campagne (French Country Bread)

Timeabout 2 days
LevelHard
Bread and savoury baking
Pain de Campagne (French Country Bread)

A traditional French-style bread made with rye and wheat flour, natural sourdough, and sea salt. Its long resting time develops a rich, rustic flavor and a perfect crust.

Campagne bread, often called French country bread, is a celebration of simplicity and tradition. Made with a blend of rye and wheat flour, sea salt, water, and natural sourdough, this bread is more than a food—it’s a living, breathing creation. Its rustic flavor and chewy texture make it a perfect companion to both everyday meals and gourmet feasts.

Baking bread is an art, a connection to centuries of culinary history. From the aromatic crust to the tender crumb, every loaf tells a story. This recipe highlights the beauty of time and patience, requiring an 18-hour rest to develop its full flavor. It’s a nod to the craftsmanship that bakeries like Hong Kong’s Bread Elements embody, providing bread to the city’s finest restaurants.

Adapted for a home kitchen by our editors from Gregoire Michaud's restaurant recipe. The chef's formula makes about 2.4 kg of dough and calls for French T170 rye and T80 wheat flour. The home version is a third of the batch, one small round loaf of about 12 slices baked in a Dutch oven, with whole-grain rye and a mix of bread flour and whole-wheat flour standing in for the French grades. It keeps the overnight rye soak, the natural sourdough and the 18-hour cold rest that give the bread its flavour, so plan on two days. Not yet tested from this page.

Ingredients

Method

  1. The evening before, mix the rye flour with the 150 ml of water into a thick paste.
  2. Cover the bowl and leave the rye soak at room temperature for 12 hours.
  3. At the same time, feed your starter so that it is bubbly and about doubled the next morning.
  4. Next morning, put the rye soak, bread flour, whole-wheat flour, starter, salt and all but 20 ml of the dough water in a large bowl.
  5. Mix with a wet hand or a stiff spatula for 4–5 minutes, until no dry flour remains; if the dough feels stiff, work in the reserved water.
  6. Cover the bowl and leave the dough for 30 minutes.
  7. With a wet hand, stretch one side of the dough up and fold it over the rest; turn the bowl a quarter and repeat, four folds in all.
  8. Cover and leave for 30 minutes, then repeat the set of four folds.
  9. Leave for another 30 minutes and do a third set of folds.
  10. Cover the bowl tightly and refrigerate the dough for 18 hours.
  11. Turn the cold dough out onto a work surface dusted with rice or rye flour.
  12. Fold the edges of the dough into the centre to make a round.
  13. Flip the round seam-side down and drag it towards you a few times to tighten the surface.
  14. Place the loaf seam-side up in the floured proofing basket or lined bowl.
  15. Cover and proof at room temperature for 1–2 hours, until it has grown by about half and a floured finger leaves a dent that springs back slowly.
  16. About 45 minutes before baking, put the Dutch oven with its lid in the oven and heat it to 250°C (480°F).
  17. Turn the loaf out onto a sheet of baking paper.
  18. Score the top with one or two quick cuts about 1 cm deep.
  19. Lift the loaf by the paper into the hot pot, cover and bake for 20 minutes.
  20. Remove the lid, lower the oven to 220°C (425°F) and bake for 25–30 minutes more, until the crust is deep brown, the base sounds hollow when tapped and the centre reads 96–98°C (205–208°F).
  21. Cool the loaf on a wire rack for at least 3 hours before slicing; the rye crumb keeps setting as it cools.
What we changed for home
  • Batch cut to a third: one loaf of about 800 g of dough The original 2.4 kg is too much for one loaf in a home oven.
  • T170 rye flour replaced with whole-grain (dark) rye flour T170 is the French grade for whole rye; whole-grain rye is sold in large supermarkets and health-food shops.
  • T80 wheat flour replaced with 3 parts bread flour to 1 part whole-wheat flour T80 is a high-extraction flour rarely sold outside France; the blend comes close in bran content and strength.
  • The rye soaked in part of the recipe water The original does not say how much water the 12-hour soak uses; taking it from the total keeps the dough as wet as written.
  • Kneading replaced with mixing plus three sets of stretch-and-folds Dough with this much rye never becomes smooth and elastic, as the original asks; folds give it enough strength to hold its shape.
  • Any active sourdough starter, fed 1:1, instead of a firm starter Most home starters are kept at equal weights of flour and water; holding back 20 ml of water covers the difference. If you have no starter, many bakeries will sell a spoonful.
  • Baked in a preheated Dutch oven at 250°C (480°F), then uncovered at 220°C (425°F), instead of 45 minutes at 210°C (410°F) A covered pot traps steam like a bakery oven, so the loaf rises fully before the crust sets; doneness is judged by colour and an internal 96–98°C (205–208°F).

The dish in the photograph was cooked by the restaurant for this story. Photo: Oleksandr Slyadnyev.

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