
When Luigi brought me this dish, I thought: ‘Oh my God, what on Earth is this? Some kind of Italian Yin and Yang? How will I shoot this?
I spent around 5 minutes looking at the dish and thinking hard and also telling jokes to a pretty waitress who volunteered to help me in this wonderful restaurant with windows facing the main Milano landmark – Piazza della Scala.
We stood closely together and young Italian seemed to understand my challenge. I could smell her complicated perfume and was thinking about relations between men and women… And there was that thought in my head: ‘everything that is complicated is simple, just don’t complicate the things…’
Ingredients
Method
- Soak the gelatin in cold water for 5 minutes.
- Warm 40 ml of the cream to 50–60°C (122–140°F), hot to the touch but not boiling.
- Squeeze the gelatin, add it to the warm cream and stir until dissolved.
- Stir in 60 ml of cold cream and let the mixture cool to about 28°C (82°F), just cool to the touch.
- Press the sea urchin through the fine sieve and stir it into the cream.
- Whip the remaining 100 ml of cream to very soft peaks and fold it in.
- Spoon the mixture into the piping bag and refrigerate it for 4 hours.
- Heat the oven to 100°C (210°F).
- Blend the 300 g of cuttlefish with a pinch of salt in the food processor for 1–2 minutes, scraping down the sides, until it forms a smooth, sticky paste.
- Spread the paste on a large sheet of baking paper, cover it with a second sheet and roll it into an even sheet about 2 mm thick and the size of the baking tray.
- Slide the sheet, still between its papers, onto the tray and cover the tray tightly with foil.
- Cook for 8–10 minutes, until the paste is opaque white and just firm when pressed.
- Let it cool on the tray, then refrigerate it for 15 minutes.
- Blend the 100 g of cuttlefish with the ink until smooth and evenly black.
- Roll the black paste between baking paper to 2 mm, cover with foil and cook it in the same way for 6–8 minutes; cool and chill.
- Peel off the top papers and cut four 15 cm white discs around the plate with a sharp knife.
- Cut four 3 cm black discs with the cutter.
- Squeeze and strain all the citrus juices into the small wide saucepan.
- Simmer over low heat for 30–40 minutes, until reduced to about 4 tbsp of thick syrup that sets on a cold plate; watch it closely at the end so it doesn't burn.
- Warm the olive oil with the chilli flakes over low heat for 2 minutes, then let it cool and strain it.
- Heat the sunflower oil in the small frying pan and fry the spaghetti for about 1 minute, until golden and crisp; drain on paper towels and salt lightly.
- Brush a stripe of citrus reduction across each plate.
- Pipe a line of sea urchin panna cotta alongside it.
- Lay a white disc over the top and set a black disc off-centre on the white one.
- Drizzle with the chilli oil, add the fried spaghetti and serve cold.
- For the white cuttlefish layer:
- Use a rolling pin to roll out the pulp between two sheets of parchment baking paper.
- Place inside a bag suitable for vacuum cooking and bake in a steam oven at 85 degrees centigrade for 6 minutes.
- Cool immediately.
- Cut out 4 disks with a diameter of 16 cm.
- For the black cuttlefish layer:
- Mix together the two ingredients.
- Use a rolling pin to roll out the pulp between two sheets of parchment baking paper.
- Place inside a bag suitable for vacuum cooking and bake in a steam oven at 85 degrees centigrade for 6 minutes.
- Cool immediately.
- Cut out 4 disks with a diameter of 3 cm.
- For the sea urchin panna cotta:
- Heat 40 g of the cream at a temperature of 36 degrees centigrade, add the gelatin and cool it to a temperature of 28 degrees centigrade.
- Add the remaining cream and the sea urchin pulp.
- Incorporate the lightly whipped cream and place it in a pastry bag for 4 hours in the refrigerator at a temperature of 6 degrees centigrade.
- For the citrus juice reduction
- In a medium saucepan, add the citrus juices and cook over a low flame until it acquires the consistency of a jelly candy.
- Plating and presentation:
- Brush the citrus juice reduction on the plate.
- Add the sea urchin panna cotta, the white disk and the smaller black disk.
- Drizzle with fresh hot pepper oil and fried spaghetti.
- Meat grinder replaced with a food processor Pulsing well-chilled cuttlefish for a minute or two gives the same smooth paste as two passes through a grinder.
- Vacuum bag in a steam oven at 85°C (185°F) replaced with baking paper and foil in a 100°C (210°F) oven The foil traps the moisture so the thin sheet steams gently and stays white and tender; no vacuum sealer or steam oven is needed.
- Discs cut 15 cm across instead of 16 cm Four 15 cm discs fit on one sheet rolled to the size of a standard 30 × 40 cm baking tray.
- Cream for the gelatin warmed to 50–60°C (122–140°F) rather than 36°C (97°F) Gelatin dissolves fully only at around 50°C; at 36°C it can stay grainy. The cream is then cooled to 28°C (82°F) as the chef does.
- Cuttlefish ink bought in sachets; cuttlefish can be replaced with squid Ink sachets are sold by fishmongers and Italian delis. Cleaned squid tubes make the same paste.
- Chilli oil and fried spaghetti written into the list and method The plating calls for both, but neither appears in the ingredients.
- Sea urchin bought fresh or frozen from a Japanese fishmonger There is no real substitute for its taste. If you can't find it, make the cream without it and top each plate with a spoonful of salmon roe for the briny note.
The dish in the photograph was cooked by the restaurant for this story. Photo: Oleksandr Slyadnyev.