Luigi Taglienti · Milan, Italy

Cuttlefish in Black and White: Ink and Cream

Time5 h 30 min
LevelMedium
Fish and seafood
Cuttlefish in Black and White: Ink and Cream

When Luigi brought me this dish, I thought: ‘Oh my God, what on Earth is this? Some kind of Italian Yin and Yang? How will I shoot this?

I spent around 5 minutes looking at the dish and thinking hard and also telling jokes to a pretty waitress who volunteered to help me in this wonderful restaurant with windows facing the main Milano landmark – Piazza della Scala.

We stood closely together and young Italian seemed to understand my challenge. I could smell her complicated perfume and was thinking about relations between men and women… And there was that thought in my head: ‘everything that is complicated is simple, just don’t complicate the things…’

Adapted for a home kitchen by our editors from Luigi Taglienti's restaurant recipe. Luigi Taglienti grinds cuttlefish twice, rolls it into thin sheets, cooks them in vacuum bags in a steam oven at 85°C (185°F) and cuts a large white disc and a small black one coloured with ink. He plates them over a stripe of reduced citrus juice with a piped sea urchin panna cotta, chilli oil and fried spaghetti. At home a food processor replaces the grinder, and the sheets cook between baking paper under foil in a 100°C (210°F) oven, which steams them the same way without a vacuum sealer or steam oven. The panna cotta, the citrus reduction and the plating stay; the chilli oil and fried spaghetti, which the list leaves out, are written in. Not yet tested from this page.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Soak the gelatin in cold water for 5 minutes.
  2. Warm 40 ml of the cream to 50–60°C (122–140°F), hot to the touch but not boiling.
  3. Squeeze the gelatin, add it to the warm cream and stir until dissolved.
  4. Stir in 60 ml of cold cream and let the mixture cool to about 28°C (82°F), just cool to the touch.
  5. Press the sea urchin through the fine sieve and stir it into the cream.
  6. Whip the remaining 100 ml of cream to very soft peaks and fold it in.
  7. Spoon the mixture into the piping bag and refrigerate it for 4 hours.
  8. Heat the oven to 100°C (210°F).
  9. Blend the 300 g of cuttlefish with a pinch of salt in the food processor for 1–2 minutes, scraping down the sides, until it forms a smooth, sticky paste.
  10. Spread the paste on a large sheet of baking paper, cover it with a second sheet and roll it into an even sheet about 2 mm thick and the size of the baking tray.
  11. Slide the sheet, still between its papers, onto the tray and cover the tray tightly with foil.
  12. Cook for 8–10 minutes, until the paste is opaque white and just firm when pressed.
  13. Let it cool on the tray, then refrigerate it for 15 minutes.
  14. Blend the 100 g of cuttlefish with the ink until smooth and evenly black.
  15. Roll the black paste between baking paper to 2 mm, cover with foil and cook it in the same way for 6–8 minutes; cool and chill.
  16. Peel off the top papers and cut four 15 cm white discs around the plate with a sharp knife.
  17. Cut four 3 cm black discs with the cutter.
  18. Squeeze and strain all the citrus juices into the small wide saucepan.
  19. Simmer over low heat for 30–40 minutes, until reduced to about 4 tbsp of thick syrup that sets on a cold plate; watch it closely at the end so it doesn't burn.
  20. Warm the olive oil with the chilli flakes over low heat for 2 minutes, then let it cool and strain it.
  21. Heat the sunflower oil in the small frying pan and fry the spaghetti for about 1 minute, until golden and crisp; drain on paper towels and salt lightly.
  22. Brush a stripe of citrus reduction across each plate.
  23. Pipe a line of sea urchin panna cotta alongside it.
  24. Lay a white disc over the top and set a black disc off-centre on the white one.
  25. Drizzle with the chilli oil, add the fried spaghetti and serve cold.
What we changed for home
  • Meat grinder replaced with a food processor Pulsing well-chilled cuttlefish for a minute or two gives the same smooth paste as two passes through a grinder.
  • Vacuum bag in a steam oven at 85°C (185°F) replaced with baking paper and foil in a 100°C (210°F) oven The foil traps the moisture so the thin sheet steams gently and stays white and tender; no vacuum sealer or steam oven is needed.
  • Discs cut 15 cm across instead of 16 cm Four 15 cm discs fit on one sheet rolled to the size of a standard 30 × 40 cm baking tray.
  • Cream for the gelatin warmed to 50–60°C (122–140°F) rather than 36°C (97°F) Gelatin dissolves fully only at around 50°C; at 36°C it can stay grainy. The cream is then cooled to 28°C (82°F) as the chef does.
  • Cuttlefish ink bought in sachets; cuttlefish can be replaced with squid Ink sachets are sold by fishmongers and Italian delis. Cleaned squid tubes make the same paste.
  • Chilli oil and fried spaghetti written into the list and method The plating calls for both, but neither appears in the ingredients.
  • Sea urchin bought fresh or frozen from a Japanese fishmonger There is no real substitute for its taste. If you can't find it, make the cream without it and top each plate with a spoonful of salmon roe for the briny note.

The dish in the photograph was cooked by the restaurant for this story. Photo: Oleksandr Slyadnyev.

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