Umberto Bombana · Hong Kong

Roe Deer Loin with Piedmont Fonduta and Foie Gras

Time1 h
LevelHard
Meat and game
Roe Deer Loin with Piedmont Fonduta and Foie Gras

A dish of pure decadence, this roe deer loin is seared to perfection, showcasing its tender texture and bold, gamey flavor. Paired with a luscious Piedmont aromatic cheese fondue, it gains a creamy, nutty depth, while the foie gras adds an unctuous, melt-in-your-mouth richness. This dish is an exquisite balance of bold and refined flavors, ideal for an elegant winter feast that celebrates the art of fine dining.

Adapted for a home kitchen by our editors from Umberto Bombana's restaurant recipe. Umberto Bombana serves a small piece of pan-roasted roe deer on a fondue of three Piedmont cheeses, with Jerusalem artichoke and salsify braised in mushroom juices, diced foie gras and white truffle. His amounts are for one course of a tasting menu, 70 g of meat per guest. The home version turns it into a main course for four, uses venison loin and Taleggio with Fontina, thickens the fondue with an egg yolk and makes the foie gras and the truffle optional. Not yet tested from this page.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Take the venison out of the fridge 30 minutes before cooking, pat it dry and season with salt and pepper.
  2. Melt the 15 g butter in the medium saucepan and cook the mushroom strips over medium heat for 3–4 minutes, until soft.
  3. Add the Jerusalem artichokes, parsnip, stock and a pinch of salt, cover and simmer for 12–15 minutes, until tender.
  4. Uncover and boil for 2–3 minutes, until the liquid has reduced to a glaze; keep warm.
  5. Heat the milk in the small saucepan until steaming.
  6. Lower the heat, add the Taleggio and Fontina and stir for 3–4 minutes, until melted and smooth; do not let it boil.
  7. Whisk the yolk in a cup with a spoonful of the hot cheese sauce, then whisk it back into the pan.
  8. Stir over the lowest heat for 1 minute, until slightly thicker, and keep the fondue warm off the heat.
  9. Heat the oil in the heavy pan over high heat and sear the venison for 2 minutes on each side.
  10. Add the butter, lower the heat to medium and keep turning and basting until a thermometer in the centre reads 55–57°C (131–135°F); finish a thick loin in a 200°C (400°F) oven for 3–5 minutes.
  11. Rest the meat for 5 minutes and keep the pan juices.
  12. If using foie gras, heat the small pan until very hot, season the slices and sear them without oil for 30–45 seconds per side, until browned outside and soft inside.
  13. Drain the foie gras on paper towels and cut it into cubes.
  14. Spoon the fondue into the warm bowls.
  15. Slice the venison thickly, lay it on the fondue and spoon over the pan juices.
  16. Arrange the vegetables and the foie gras around the meat.
  17. Shave over the truffle, if using, and finish with the herbs.
What we changed for home
  • Portions raised from 70 g to 150 g of meat per person, with vegetables and fondue to match The chef's dish is one course of a tasting menu; at home it is the main course.
  • Roe deer can be red or fallow deer loin, or beef fillet Roe deer is rarely sold outside Central Europe, and only in season.
  • Tuma di Paja and Pajarin cheeses replaced with more Fontina alongside the Taleggio Both are small Piedmont cheeses that are hard to find abroad; Fontina melts the same way and is the classic cheese for fonduta.
  • 'Japan egg yolk' sauce replaced with a fresh egg yolk whisked into the fondue The chef does not explain the sauce. A yolk thickens and enriches the cheese, as in a Piedmont fonduta.
  • Salsify replaced with parsnip Fresh salsify is rarely in shops; parsnip has a similar sweet, earthy taste. Salsify from a jar also works.
  • 'Mushroom jus julienne' made by cooking thin strips of mushroom in chicken stock with the vegetables The original lists it as a ready component without a method.
  • Foie gras and white truffle made optional Both are costly, and foie gras is hard or impossible to buy in some places; the cheese and vegetables carry the dish without them.
  • Doneness given: 55–57°C (131–135°F) in the centre The original says only 'to the average level of roasting'.

The dish in the photograph was cooked by the restaurant for this story. Photo: Oleksandr Slyadnyev.

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