Jordi Cruz Mas · Barcelona, Spain

Lemon Dessert with Flowers, Ice Cream and Cookies by Jordi Cruz

Time7 h
LevelMedium
Desserts
Lemon Dessert with Flowers, Ice Cream and Cookies by Jordi Cruz

Spain, Spain …

It is associated for me with a permanent fiesta, the joy and food. That only is the story of how I came to the shooting in a restaurant to Jordi Cruz. And in Spanish cuisine there are so many different thing, which really need you attention. The Spanish people are experts in the main dishes,beverages and, of course, in desserts. Always bright, always yelling, always so loud in a good way.

There’s all like a whirlwind, spontaneous, beautiful and with pleasure. And good music.

Adapted for a home kitchen by our editors from Jordi Cruz Mas's restaurant recipe. At ABaC in Barcelona, Jordi Cruz builds this plate from a violet ice cream with stabiliser, a yoghurt sorbet spun in a Pacojet, sugar-and-lemon glaze dried on rice paper, an almond crumble, a microwave yoghurt sponge, elderflower liqueur candies set in cornflour, blueberries and candied lemon. The home version keeps the same layers and flavours but makes a no-churn violet ice cream, freezes the sorbet in a tray and blitzes it in a food processor, dries the glaze in a cool oven and replaces the two-day candies with a few drops of elderflower liqueur. Batches are cut to four plates. Not yet tested from this page.

Ingredients

Method

  1. At least 6 hours ahead, whip the cream for the ice cream to soft peaks.
  2. Fold in the condensed milk and violet syrup until smooth, spread the mixture in a freezer container, cover and freeze for at least 6 hours.
  3. Whisk the yoghurt, water, sugar and lemon zest until the sugar has dissolved.
  4. Pour the sorbet mixture into the second container in a layer about 2 cm deep and freeze for at least 4 hours, until solid.
  5. Heat the oven to its lowest setting, 50–70°C (120–160°F), and line a tray with baking paper.
  6. Mix the sugar and lemon juice for the glaze into a thick paste.
  7. Lay the rice paper sheets on the tray and spread the paste over them very thinly.
  8. Dry the sheets in the oven with the door propped ajar with a wooden spoon for 45–60 minutes, until crisp and dry to the touch.
  9. Let the sheets cool, break them into shards and keep them in an airtight box.
  10. Raise the oven to 180°C (350°F).
  11. Beat the butter until creamy, then mix in the brown sugar, flour and almond flour to a crumbly dough.
  12. Roll the dough between two sheets of baking paper to 3–4 mm thick, peel off the top sheet and slide the dough on its paper onto a tray.
  13. Bake for 10–12 minutes, until golden, let it cool completely and crush it into coarse crumbs with the rolling pin.
  14. For the sponge, whisk the eggs and sugar with the electric whisk for about 5 minutes, until pale, thick and doubled in volume.
  15. Sift the almond flour, flour and baking powder over the eggs and fold them in gently, then fold in the yoghurt.
  16. Cut three small slits in the base of each paper cup and fill the cups halfway.
  17. Microwave one or two cups at a time at 600–700 W for 40–60 seconds, until risen and set.
  18. Turn the sponges out with a knife, let them cool and break them into walnut-sized pieces.
  19. Put four plates in the freezer for 10 minutes.
  20. Break the frozen sorbet into chunks and blitz it in the food processor until smooth and creamy.
  21. On each cold plate, spoon some crumble, a few pieces of sponge and a scoop of violet ice cream, then add the blueberries and candied lemon.
  22. Cover with a spoonful of yoghurt sorbet.
  23. Finish with shards of lemon glaze, a flower or two and a few drops of elderflower liqueur on the rim, and serve at once.
What we changed for home
  • Violet ice cream with dextrose and stabiliser replaced with a no-churn violet cream It needs no ice-cream maker or specialist sugars and stays scoopable from the freezer. The chef's base also lists only 40 g of sugar for 4 litres of milk and cream, far too little to sweeten it or keep it soft.
  • Violet flavour from violet syrup or crushed crystallised violets Crystallised violets are sold in specialist baking shops; violet syrup for drinks is easier to find.
  • Pacojet sorbet replaced with a sorbet frozen in a tray and blitzed in a food processor A Pacojet shaves a frozen block into a smooth ice; a food processor does a coarser version of the same job at home.
  • Lemon glaze dried in the oven at its lowest setting with the door ajar Few home cooks have a food dryer; 50–70°C (120–160°F) dries the sugar without browning it.
  • Yoghurt powder in the sponge replaced with Greek yoghurt, a little more flour and baking powder Yoghurt powder is a specialist product. Whisking the eggs well and adding a little baking powder gives the microwave sponge its lift.
  • Elderflower candies left out; a few drops of elderflower liqueur or cordial go on the plate instead The candies set in a bed of cornflour for two days and need a sugar thermometer, and the sugar is missing from the chef's list. The liqueur gives the same elderflower note as the chef's drop of 'nectar'.
  • All batches cut to four plates, including the crumble halved The chef's quantities make litres of ice cream and sorbet for a restaurant.

The dish in the photograph was cooked by the restaurant for this story. Photo: Oleksandr Slyadnyev.

Screen stays on while you cook