Jordi Cruz Mas · Barcelona, Spain
Lemon Dessert with Flowers, Ice Cream and Cookies by Jordi Cruz

Spain, Spain …
It is associated for me with a permanent fiesta, the joy and food. That only is the story of how I came to the shooting in a restaurant to Jordi Cruz. And in Spanish cuisine there are so many different thing, which really need you attention. The Spanish people are experts in the main dishes,beverages and, of course, in desserts. Always bright, always yelling, always so loud in a good way.
There’s all like a whirlwind, spontaneous, beautiful and with pleasure. And good music.
Ingredients
Method
- At least 6 hours ahead, whip the cream for the ice cream to soft peaks.
- Fold in the condensed milk and violet syrup until smooth, spread the mixture in a freezer container, cover and freeze for at least 6 hours.
- Whisk the yoghurt, water, sugar and lemon zest until the sugar has dissolved.
- Pour the sorbet mixture into the second container in a layer about 2 cm deep and freeze for at least 4 hours, until solid.
- Heat the oven to its lowest setting, 50–70°C (120–160°F), and line a tray with baking paper.
- Mix the sugar and lemon juice for the glaze into a thick paste.
- Lay the rice paper sheets on the tray and spread the paste over them very thinly.
- Dry the sheets in the oven with the door propped ajar with a wooden spoon for 45–60 minutes, until crisp and dry to the touch.
- Let the sheets cool, break them into shards and keep them in an airtight box.
- Raise the oven to 180°C (350°F).
- Beat the butter until creamy, then mix in the brown sugar, flour and almond flour to a crumbly dough.
- Roll the dough between two sheets of baking paper to 3–4 mm thick, peel off the top sheet and slide the dough on its paper onto a tray.
- Bake for 10–12 minutes, until golden, let it cool completely and crush it into coarse crumbs with the rolling pin.
- For the sponge, whisk the eggs and sugar with the electric whisk for about 5 minutes, until pale, thick and doubled in volume.
- Sift the almond flour, flour and baking powder over the eggs and fold them in gently, then fold in the yoghurt.
- Cut three small slits in the base of each paper cup and fill the cups halfway.
- Microwave one or two cups at a time at 600–700 W for 40–60 seconds, until risen and set.
- Turn the sponges out with a knife, let them cool and break them into walnut-sized pieces.
- Put four plates in the freezer for 10 minutes.
- Break the frozen sorbet into chunks and blitz it in the food processor until smooth and creamy.
- On each cold plate, spoon some crumble, a few pieces of sponge and a scoop of violet ice cream, then add the blueberries and candied lemon.
- Cover with a spoonful of yoghurt sorbet.
- Finish with shards of lemon glaze, a flower or two and a few drops of elderflower liqueur on the rim, and serve at once.
- For lemon glaze:
- Well mix together the sugar and lemon. Cut the rice paper by size, stretch on non-stick surface and put the mixture of sugar and lemon. Allow the mixture to dry for 5-10 minutes at a temperature of 55 degrees. For greater certainty, let it dry for a further 40 minutes. You can leave it in the dryer until use.
- For violet ice cream:
- Boil together milk and cream, add chopped violet and let to rest. Add glucose and stabilizer, and let to stand for 8 hours. Filter and the mixture turned into cream, put in the refrigerator until use.
- For yoghrut sherbet:
- Mix all the ingredients, beating until sugar is completely dissolved, strain through a sieve and put into a special machine Pacojet. The mixture was left overnight in the Pacojet.
- For crispy cookies:
- Well whipped butter, until it turned into the cream, add all other ingredients. Roll out to a thickness of 2-5 mm and bake at 180 degrees for 10 minutes. Let cool and flatten with a rolling pin. Put them in a dry container.
- For yoghurt cake:
- Mix all the ingredients in a food processor until they become smooth. Make small slits in plastic cups, fill them half the mixture and cook in the microwave for about 1 minute at 600 watts. Using a knife, remove them. Before serving break them so that the size, they were not more than a walnut.
- For elder candies:
- Mix water and sugar and to boil until the mixture reaches a temperature of 109 degrees. Pour the syrup into a glass bowl and add the alcohol. Mix everything and pour into another bowl, and do so for another 5 times, to better crystallize the sugar. Mound the flour in the bowl so that it was the height of at least 2 cm. Compact well and leave to dry overnight in the oven at 50 degrees. The next day, again well compacted, make a small hole and fill them with a mixture of liqueur St Germain. Requests through the sieve even cornmeal and leave to dry at 40 degrees for another 4 h. Form sweets and leave them in an airtight container.
- One more:
- Cut strips of diced candied lemon
- Prepare fresh blueberries.
- Serving:
- In the cold marble plate, place a tablespoon of crispy cookies, a few pieces of cake yoghurt, violet ice cream, blueberries and small cubes of candied lemon. Cover it all by the yoghurt sorbet. On the wing plates add lemon glaze, one or two flowers and a drop of the nectar of flowers. And serve without delay!
What we changed for home
- Violet ice cream with dextrose and stabiliser replaced with a no-churn violet cream It needs no ice-cream maker or specialist sugars and stays scoopable from the freezer. The chef's base also lists only 40 g of sugar for 4 litres of milk and cream, far too little to sweeten it or keep it soft.
- Violet flavour from violet syrup or crushed crystallised violets Crystallised violets are sold in specialist baking shops; violet syrup for drinks is easier to find.
- Pacojet sorbet replaced with a sorbet frozen in a tray and blitzed in a food processor A Pacojet shaves a frozen block into a smooth ice; a food processor does a coarser version of the same job at home.
- Lemon glaze dried in the oven at its lowest setting with the door ajar Few home cooks have a food dryer; 50–70°C (120–160°F) dries the sugar without browning it.
- Yoghurt powder in the sponge replaced with Greek yoghurt, a little more flour and baking powder Yoghurt powder is a specialist product. Whisking the eggs well and adding a little baking powder gives the microwave sponge its lift.
- Elderflower candies left out; a few drops of elderflower liqueur or cordial go on the plate instead The candies set in a bed of cornflour for two days and need a sugar thermometer, and the sugar is missing from the chef's list. The liqueur gives the same elderflower note as the chef's drop of 'nectar'.
- All batches cut to four plates, including the crumble halved The chef's quantities make litres of ice cream and sorbet for a restaurant.
The dish in the photograph was cooked by the restaurant for this story. Photo: Oleksandr Slyadnyev.
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